Ghost Towns of France

While driving through France you may wonder where all the people are in seemingly deserted villages. Many of these quiet places are actually lively communities, but across France there are a number of 'ghost towns'.

In addition to the haunting Oradour-sur-Glâne (WWII), visitors can also find one of the infamous 'ghost towns' just a short drive from Bonnes Routes, which has a disturbing story behind it!

Courbefy is a village with 21 buildings, a tennis court, swimming pool and 13th century chapel. During the 1970s people started to leave the village to find work. The last resident built a hotel and restaurant and bought up all the houses and lands of the village in the 1990s to create a holiday village. Unfortunately in 2008 he went bankrupt.

The village was purchased in 2012 by Korean billionaire Yoo Byung-eun to establish an "environmental, artistic and cultural" project. After starting the project, Byung-eun went missing in April 2014 after a disaster with one of his ferries which killed 304 people, mainly high school students. He was South Korea's most wanted man. His decomposed body was found a couple of months later in a plum field near one of his factories.

 A guardian of Courbefy is currently employed by Ahae Press Inc (run by Yoo Byung-eun's youngest son) to watch over the village and report to them every month. We await the next chapter.

 In the meantime this ghost village is worth a visit. The village is the highest point in the Parc naturel régional Périgord Limousin at 557m, and offers some amazing views. The site was occupied from prehistoric times by the Celts, then the Romans, a fortress was erected there in the 12th century by the viscounts of Limoges (destroyed in the 16th century). 

There are many excellent hiking trails and walks from the village – one of which will lead you to the Bonnes Fontaines (good fountains).

These 'miraculous fountains', or 'devotional fountains' are present in three department of the Limousin, with Haute-Vienne having over 190 of them. The ones at Courbefy (the Saint-Eutrope fountains) are among the most famous. Offerings (ex-voto) are left in the hope of healing, protection or as gratitude for recovery from illness or injury.

The first fountain at Courbefy has a wooden cross with four branches where people hang scarves, socks, ribbons and clothes as their offering.

Each fountain has a mail box where people leave letters, prayers, requests for healing. The first fountain has the power to cure “the sickness of the saints”, headaches and rheumatism. The second, the kidneys (and rheumatism), where people rub their elbows and knees with water. The third will cure toothaches. Conveniently, the water from the fountains will apparently only cure us if we deserve it, so if it doesn't work … it's your own fault!

If you’re feeling energetic there is a 15 km hiking trail or some shorter loops and well-marked walks. Try this one from Visorando: Les Bonnes Fontaines de Courbefy.

Festival of the Dead

If you are visiting France at the end of October you will find supermarkets and DIY stores with tents of chrysanthemums for sale. It's a bright and unexpected sight which contrasts with the colder weather and dark nights. So what's going on?

1 November is La Toussaint (All Saint's Day), followed by Fete des Morts (Festival of the Dead) on 2 November. 1 November is a public holiday (jour férié), so whatever day it falls on be prepared for a national shut down.

La Toussaint is a Catholic holiday honoring all Saints, but for most French people (including those of no religion) it's a day to pay respects to deceased relatives. It is one of the busiest days on the road network, as families travel all over France to gather together and visit cemeteries to clean and decorate their families tombs.

This is where the chrysanthemums come in. These flowers started appearing on graves in cemeteries across Western Europe in the 19th century, when they replaced candles. After WWI, the French President Raymond Poincaré called on the nation to lay blooms on the graves of fallen soldiers. As one of the rare flowers in bloom in November it became the flower of choice for cemeteries, with hundreds of thousands of widows laying blooms at their fallen husbands' memorials. The chrysanthemum is now forever associated with Toussaint and death, so don't give it to a French host as a thank you … that would be a very mixed message!

Around 25 million pots of chrysanthemums are placed on French graves on the 1st of November and up to 100 million Euros are spent on flowers for this day.

The pictures from our local cemetery in La Coquille give you an idea of just how beautiful the flower displays are. A ray of sunshine as we go into winter.

Travel Update : UK to France

Times have moved on ... check our Facebook page for the latest travel advice or fill in our contact form with any queries.

With the announcement on 4 August that France has now been removed from it’s somewhat puzzling status on an “Amber + Quarantine” list by the UK government, it’s a good time for a recap on the travel rules facing any intrepid travellers daring to chance a driving holiday in France this year.

The following guidance is for people who are fully vaccinated. People who are not fully vaccinated are currently unable to travel to France - sorry!

Incoming from the UK

Each traveller will need:

  • Proof of vaccination using the NHS COVID Pass. This needs to be seven days after second of the two-shot vaccines, four weeks after one-shot vaccines, seven days after one shot for those who have had COVID-19. Note that ‘natural immunity’ is not accepted for entry.

  • Sworn declaration that you have no COVID-19 symptoms and have not been in contact with a confirmed case 14 days prior to your journey.

You do NOT need to have a PCR or anti-gen test to enter France. Easy!

Returning to the UK

Each traveller will need:

  • Negative anti-gen test

  • Passenger Locator Form (PLF) to be completed within 48 hours before travel

  • Booking reference for your day-2 PCR test in the UK (to be entered to your PLF)

The required anti-gen test is available at our village pharmacy at a cost of approximately 35 €. We can arrange the appointment for guests for the day before return travel - please advise us when booking.

We can help guests complete/print their PLF and book their day-2 test before their return journey.

Other travel considerations

  • Travellers do NOT need a visa to travel at this time.

  • You need six months left on your passport on the day of travel.

  • Your European Health Insurance Card is still valid in France but you are advised to have travel insurance.

  • You do NOT need a green card for your car insurance (a concession made by the EU as part of the resolution for the Northern Ireland protocol).

  • Make sure you have a GB sticker on your car - the old EU plates are no longer valid.

If you have any questions not covered above please fill in our contact form and we’ll get right back to you.

See you soon!